April 11, 2012 § 1 Comment
Ecuadorian Airline SAERO S.A. has announced they are to begin inter-islands service within the Galapagos Islands. There are currently three airports in the Galapagos the largest on the island of Baltra, one on the island of San Cristobal and a third which is exclusively used for inter-island flights on the island of Isabela. Travel between these islands is currently limited to either a fiberglass speed boat or EMETEBEE airlines which operates 7 and 9 passenger Britten-Norman 2 Islander planes.
SAERO which currently offers flights within Ecuador and to the beaches of Northern Peru has a fleet that includes a Turbo Commander 840, Helicopter, BeechCraft 1900 Embraer 120 and Leer Jet. SAERO’s entry into the Galapagos inter-island market will make more options available and it more convenient for travelers who wish to travel between the islands by plane.
March 23, 2012 § Leave a comment
Protests in Ecuador yesterday shut down the capital city of Quito while indigenous protested the governments signing of new mining contracts. The Amazon Rainforest is one of the most bio-diverse areas in the world. As the largest tract of tropical rainforest in the Americas, one in 10 species in the world can be found within the Amazon Basin.
This area is also home to a number of indigenous groups, including groups within the Brazilian Amazon which have remained without contact from the outside world. For decades the Amazon Region has also been exploited for its wealth of natural resources including deforestation, oil production, and mining operations.
Environmentalists are concerned about loss of biodiversity that will result from destruction of the forest, and also about the release of the carbon contained within the vegetation, which could accelerate global warming. As regions within the Amazon Basin continue to succumb to eco-side the many of the indigenous groups from the area have become the voice for the Amazon through community based conservation efforts.
August 11, 2011 § 1 Comment
Approximately half way between the islands of Santa Cruz and San Cristobal lies the small island of Santa Fe. Shaped like a bean with a beautiful lagoon in the middle the island has a tilted appearance as it was created by geological uplift rather than from a central volcano.
For years Santa Fe has been a favorite on cruise itineraries. The lagoon provides an excellent place to snorkel with sea lions, colorful fish, small sharks and may be even a giant tuna that is frequently sited here all in a protected environment away from ocean surges. Currently many companies in Puerto Ayora are offering a day tour to Santa Fe while not allowing you to go ashore does allow you to come and snorkel in the bay.
As one of the oldest islands in the Galapagos Santa Fe is home to a mature and diverse combination of flora and fauna. The good anchorage in the bay and relatively flat nature of the island made it a frequent stop for early visitors coming ashore in search of food and water. As a result Santa Fe was one of the first islands to have its tortoise population become extinct approximately 200 years ago.
Today if you are on a Galapagos Cruise or permitted day tour you will also be able to visit the island of Santa Fe. Once ashore you will find a powdery beach that is home to a colony of sea lions. From the beach you a loop trail takes you up along the coast to the opuntia cactus cactus forest. The opuntias in Santa Fe are the largest and healthiest in Galapagos. The cactus have grown to be the size of full trees with trunks measuring over a foot in diameter.
Continuing along the trail you’ll reach the top of the hill where you a panoramic vista of the bay begins before heading back down to the beach. As you make your way along the trail a careful eye you can spot Galapagos Hawks, the endemic, larger and brownish colored Santa Fe Land Iguana, Galapagos Snakes, Galapagos Doves, Lava Lizards, both land and marine birds as well as possibly one of the only two remaining species of endemic Galapagos Rats.
The Galapagos National Park has just finished a 10 day monitoring of Santa Fe. With of 20 park rangers involved the island was divided into quadrants and the officials recorded all bird and reptile species present were recorded, as well as cactus and woody vegetation. The survey was used to count iguanas, hawks, and some species of finch (those with smaller populations).
May 11, 2010 § 1 Comment
Galapagos Cruises cater to nature lovers from all over the world and are the classic way to visit the Galapagos Islands. Cruising through the Galapagos combines the romance of an ocean voyage, the spirit of adventure, and the exotic and uninhibited wildlife, which makes the Galapagos a dream destination.
Cruises are offered in 4, 5, 8 or 15-day options. On the first day of your cruise you’ll fly from the Ecuadorian mainland (either Quito or Guayaquil) to the Galapagos where you’ll board your boat and begin your cruise. Similarly you will fly back to the mainland on the last day of your cruise.
Each cruise has a pre-determined itinerary designed in conjunction with the National Park to offer travelers with the best possible experience, while minimizing the effect of their visit on the islands. During your cruise you will have a glimpse of the great diversity that makes the Galapagos Islands so special, you’ll delight at incredible interactions with the island’s wildlife and with the help of your naturalist guide gain an understanding of what makes these islands so unique and their preservation so important.
There are four distinct regions in the Galapagos—the Southern, Western, Northern and Central Islands. As islands age they take on new characteristics. Each of the areas differs depending on the geologic age of the islands found there. The Galapagos archipelago was never attached to a continent. All of the islands are volcanic in nature. On the younger islands the volcanoes are still active, the islands are rugged, and the wildlife lives off the fruit of the sea and has evolved to survive in harsh conditions. The older islands, the volcanoes have become extinct, the lava has broken down to become fertile soil and this rich soil is able to support a variety of plants and assortment of wildlife.
San Cristobal, Espanola and Floreana in the southern part of the chain are the oldest of the islands. These islands were favorites among pirates, whalers, and early setters. Where other islands are dry and desolate these islands have a variety of plants and animals as well as the Galapagos’ only permanent freshwater lake (found on San Cristobal) and fresh water springs (found on Floreana).
In distinct contrast, to the west you’ll find the youngest islands—Isabela and Fernandina. These islands are closest to the Galapagos Hot Spot and the volcanoes are still active – the last eruption occurred in 2009. Visiting this area offers a sense of how the islands were born and that the archipelago continues to evolve. Pioneer plants like candelabra cactus and mangroves are seen as a glimpse of green on the otherwise barren black volcanic rock landscape. Much of the wildlife found here is endemic to the Galapagos. These species have evolved overtime to survive the unforgiving environment and include the Flightless Cormorant, Galapagos Penguins, Marine Iguanas, Mangrove and Woodpecker Finch.
Further to the north you’ll find Genovesa, unlike other islands with a central volcano towering over the island creating a distinct highland area, on Genovesa you’ll sail into the center of the collapsed caldera. The highest point on the island is 250 feet. This large flat surface is a favorite of sea birds and Genovesa is lovingly known as “bird island” with colonies of Red footed boobies, storm petrels, great frigate birds, blue footed boobies, nazca boobies, swallow tail gulls, short eared owls and Darwin finch living here.
The central islands are mid-way through their life cycle. These islands were created in two ways either from a single volcano like Santa Cruz and Santiago or from geological uplift like Plazas and North Seymour. The central islands retain the dry rugged look of the western islands while being able to support a more complex mixture of plants and animals similar to the southern islands. Colonies of boobies, frigate birds and sea lions are common sites. Land Iguanas can be seen in forests of opunita cactus. And for many visitors, a trip to the highlands of Santa Cruz is their only opportunity to see the Giant Galapagos Tortoises in the wild.
The best Galapagos cruise will combine all four of these areas over an 8 day period. Due to national park restrictions boats with more than 32 passengers are not permitted to visit the northern area. If you are booking an 8 day cruise, for the most interesting experience you will want to look for an itinerary that includes at least three of these areas.
Traveling to Galapagos is not an inexpensive endeavor – you’ll find yourself spending a minimum of $500 per person just getting yourself to the islands without having left the airport. The Galapagos is a once in a lifetime destination. Cruises vary in price based depending on the comfort level and services offered on board. Prices typically range from around $200 a day for a low end cruise catering to the backpackers to over $400 a day for a luxury cruise.
When deciding how much you want to spend, take a look at the itinerary, as well as the features of the boat whether you’ll have your own cabin or be sleeping in a dormitory situation. You’ll want to look whether the cabins have lower beds or bunk beds, shared bathrooms or private baths. There are also optional choices like whether they have snorkel gear available, kayaks or wetsuits for you to use.
Last but not least, it’s always a good idea to ask about the demographics of the typical passenger for the boat you are selecting. Many of the boats cater to a specific market. If you are in your 20’s going with your fiancée you may not want to go with a group of seniors. There are boats that cater to Germans, French, Italians, Israelis or Ecuadorians travelers – while traveling with people from other countries adds to the experience it may be lonely at mealtime if you find yourself unable to communicate with other passengers.
For most traveler’s this will be the one time you visit the Galapagos, so make sure to take your time making your decision and to get good advice so that the Galapagos Cruise you choose will live up to all your dreams.
Learn about our recommended Galapagos Cruises
April 20, 2010 § 2 Comments
When you think of iconic mountain peaks the image of the triangular shape with the crooked tip of Matterhorn Comes or perhaps the clouds that always dust the peak of Mount Everest, yet in Ecuador it is the iconic Cotopaxi.
Cotopaxi is a symmetrical cone soaring from the green grasses and wildflowers of the surrounding paramo, to the brownish-black volcanic rocks climbing towards the summit to the snow-covered peak. Dominating the capital City of Quito skyline to the South, at 19,347 feet in elevation Cotopaxi is the second highest peak in Ecuador and the highest continually active volcano in the world.
Cotopaxi means “Smooth Neck of the Moon” and the indigenous people have revered the mountain for centuries. The mountain was the bringer of both good rains and good crops. Pre-Incan civilizations believed god dwelled at the top of the mountain.
During the reign of the Incas, Cotopaxi was revered and the unmistakable landmark made it the perfect junction for Incan Roads heading between the fertile valleys of the Sierra and the sultry Amazon jungle. Traces of it’s ancient past can be found in the Incan walls near the springs at Santo Domingo and the remains of the Incan Fortress can been found at Pucara Salitre that controlled traffic on the Incan Roads between the jungle and Latacunga Valley.
The Cotopaxi Volcano with its long history of eruptions. The most famous of which occurred in June 1877, lava poured from the crater melting the glacial snows and creating lahars (avalanches of mud). The lahars sped down the mountain reeking havoc along the way. Much of the neighboring countryside was buried as a wave of mud cascaded over it. The city of Latacunga to the South of Cotopaxi was demolished it’s residents unable to escape were buried alive. These lahars continued with such a magnitude that within an 18-hour period the mudflows had reached the Pacific Coast town of Esmeraldes. Evidence of that catastrophic flow can still be seen throughout much of the countryside of the Sierras. Though Cotopaxi remains active; it has been many years since the last large eruption.
Today, Cotopaxi National Park is the second most visited national park in Ecuador after the Galapagos Islands and it’s the mountain’s natural beauty and a thirst for adventure that draws thousands of tourists each year. Within Cotopaxi National Park there are picnic areas, camping groups, a visitor center, lakes, rivers for fishing, hiking trails and the center the great volcano.
Much of the park is located above the tree line and this wide-open space. The park consists of over is home to Andean gulls, ducks, several species of hummingbirds, Andean Condors, wild horses, deer, rabbits gazelles, wolves, bears foxes, weasels as well as llamas and alpaca the majority of the wildlife lives in the lower elevations.
The great peak is a favorite for mountaineers. The call of the mountain reached famed mountaineer Alexander von Humboldt who failed to reach the summit in 1802. It was geologist Wihelm Rajass who was first person to reach the peak nearly ¾ of a century later. Today, there are 100’s of people who attempt to summit the mountain each week.
With the number of climbers seeking the summit each week, you might almost think the climb is easy. While not considered technically difficult basic mountaineering skills and equipment are required including the use of crampons, ice axe, ropes, and an experienced guide. The elevation is possibly the most difficult part of the climb and for the best chance of success we recommend spending several days in and around the mountain hiking or enjoying other active sports in order to get ready.
The night before the climb is spent at the Jose F. Rivas Refugio. The refugio hosts a large living room with a cozy fireplace, a very basic restaurant, bathrooms and bunks for sleeping. More importantly is it’s location at the base of the glacier it’s the perfect location for your mid-night start for the 6 hour steady climb to the top. Making your way up the mountain one foot after another seeking to reach the summit before the sun’s rays have a chance to soften the snow and causing you to turn around.
Bad weather can also inhibit you reaching your goal, for the best chances of clear skies we recommend planning your summit attempt around the full moon. Though you can climb the mountain year round, December and January are considered the best months followed by February to April it is also considered good conditions from July to September.
The grasslands of Cotopaxi are a favorite day tour for tourists visiting from Quito. A couple hour drive south from Quito allows you to visit the paramo, lakes, visitor center and refugio before heading back to the capital city. Or to combine the day’s visit to Cotopaxi National park with a multi-day tour heading down the Avenue of the Volcanoes. Making Cotopaxi their first stop, and spending the night at one of the lovely historic haciendas before continuing South to explore some of the traditional local markets, the hot springs of Baños and the beautiful colonial city of Cuenca.
Learn more about Cotopaxi
April 16, 2010 § 1 Comment
The southernmost island in the Galapagos Archipelago is also one of the most interesting to visit. The incredible concentration of wildlife found on Española makes it a favorite of tourists and guides alike and each April the Albatross return and make the experience complete.
The Galapagos Islands are volcanic in origin and were never connected to the mainland. Rather each island was born at the Galapagos “Hot Spot” a point deep under the sea where energy from the divergence of the Nazca, Cocos and Pacific plates is released in the form of magma, built up overtime this magma forms sea mounts which rise out from the ocean to form islands. Over time as the plates continue to shift the islands break free and a new island is born and an archipelago is formed.
Española is a classic example of a shield volcano and the aging process of the islands. The oldest of the islands at approximately 3.3 million years, Española was formed from a single caldera in the center of the island. As the island moved further and further from the hot spot the volcano became extinct. When islands are younger and more volcanically active (like Fernandina to the west) the island is stark made up of lava and sand, plant life is limited to pioneer plants and wildlife found on the island are those that can survive the harsh environment and rely on the seas for food. In contrast on Española as the island moved further and further away from the hot spot the lava fields begins to erode and were replaced by fertile soils. This soil was able to sustain plants and in turn wildlife. The remote location of Española allowed these life forms to evolve overtime independently of the other islands in the chain and today Española is home to a large number of endemic animals.
The Hood Mockingbird is one such example and endemic to the island. These brazen birds have no fear of man and frequently land on visitor’s heads, shoulders, feet or anywhere else they can searching for food and water. The Hood Mockingbird is slightly larger than other Mockingbirds found in the Galapagos; its beak is longer and has a more curved shape. It is the only carnivorous mockingbird and feeds on a variety of insects, turtle hatchlings and sea lion placentas.
Home to three species of Darwin Finch the large cactus finch, small ground finch and warbler finch can all be found. For those who read about the Galapagos one of the better known inhabitants is one that you will never see – the Española Tortoise. In 1965, the tortoise population on Española had been reduced to just 12 females and 2 males all of which were transferred to the Darwin Station on Santa Cruz. In 1976 another male was found at the San Diego Zoo and transferred to the Galapagos to join the breeding program. The first great success of the tortoise breeding and rearing program, in 1991 tortoises were repatriated to Española and today there are more than living in a protected environment near Manzanillo Bay.
Española offers two visitor sites each with a very different experience, the beach at Gardner Bay and the Rocky Cliffs and wildlife of Punta Suarez.
On the northern coast is Gardner Bay, consisting of two long stretches of beach the sites main attraction is the sea lion colony that has found the powdery white sands the perfect place to take a never-ending siesta. Gardner Bay is one of the few open areas within the national park where visitors are free to explore on their own, as long as they keep an eye out not to step on any sea turtle nest.
The snorkeling at Gardner Bay is fantastic. Close to the beach you can swim with sea lions this is an opportunity not to be missed. Further out towards Tortuga Rock and Gardner Island schools of large colorful tropical fish including yellow tailed surgeon fish, angelfish and bump-head parrot fish swim along with an occasional Manta Ray gliding by and white-tipped sharks napping on the bottom.
On the western tip of Española is Punta Suarez one of the best sites in the Galapagos. The amount of wildlife is overwhelming. The walk is approximately 2 hours and during mating season Punta Suraez comes to life as one big party.
Arriving on shore you are met by carefree sea lion pups waiting to entice you back into the water. Colorful marine iguanas are waiting along the walkways and scattered in the rocks. Normally marine iguanas are black in color, a natural camouflage, making it difficult for predators to differentiate between the iguanas and the black lava rocks where the iguana’s live. The subspecies found on Española appear to be almost festive; these iguanas which are normally a reddish shade turn green during mating season.
Continuing inland Galapagos Doves peck around seemingly unaware of your presence, finches fly back and forth between bushes and Galapagos Hawks are seen perched waiting for their next meal. Here masked and blue footed boobies dance with their partners. Masked boobies flapping their wings as the blue-foots strut around their bright feet honking and whistling as if they each have their own party noise maker. Young boobies appear to be in costumes as their downy feathers look like wig on their otherwise naked body.
The trail leads to the cliff’s edge where a fissure in the lava below creates a dramatic blow-hole forcing the sea water over high in the air as if it were liquid confetti. These cliffs are an excellent place to watch what seems to be a magic show, swallow-tailed gulls and red-billed tropicbirds levitated by thermals perform stunts overhead.
If wildlife is the highlight of Española than the Waved Albatross is the star of the show. Known as endemic to the island Española is their only nesting place. Albatross arrive on Española each April and remain here through December. The island’s steep cliffs make perfect runways. These large birds seem somewhat awkward on land as they spread out their expansive wings and run launching themselves off the cliff’s edge. Once in the air these large birds with their 6-foot wingspan seem transformed as they gracefully soar in the wind. Española is the only island where you are guaranteed to see albatross in Galapagos.
Española can only be visited as part of a naturalist cruise, and visiting Española is sure to be a highlight of your trip. Make sure to have you camera batteries fully charged and plenty of space on your memory card because you’ll want to take lots of pictures!
April 8, 2010 § Leave a comment
Traveling to Latin America each country has it’s own gateway or point of entry from where you begin your trip – for Peru you fly into Lima, Argentina it’s Buenos Aires, in Costa Rica it’s San Jose in Ecuador you have your choice of either Quito or Guayaquil.
Having the option of two cities in which to arrive normally brings out the question of which city to arrive. Quito, a beautiful city located high in the Andes is a UNESCO world heritage site, rich in culture and history. Quito’s cobblestone streets of the old city, plazas and surrounding gilded churches make it the best preserved colonial city in Latin America, it’s easy to spend a day or two exploring the old city and getting lost in time. However it is located at an elevation of almost 10,000 feet elevation making it less desirable for older travelers or those who suffer from heart or altitude problems.
Guayaquil by contrast is a bustling, coastal city much of its colonial history has been swept away in the many pirate attacks and fires that make up the cities colorful history. However, in the last decade Guayaquil has undergone a metamorphosis changing it’s overall flavor from a dirty and dangerous port city to a modern city with new hotels, shopping centers, and new airport all waiting to invite foreign tourists and investors.
Spending an extra day in Guayaquil, people want to do the “tour of Guayaquil” expecting like many Latin American countries a well defined tour of historic buildings and churches. However in Guayaquil the best outing combines the historic Las Peñas neighborhood, the Malecon 2000 and surrounding area with a cruise on Guayas River.
Built on Santa Ana Hill Las Peñas is a colonial neighborhood, which has been built and rebuilt several times. This brightly painted neighborhood has been home to many of Ecuador’s historic figures including presidents and poets alike. Today many of the houses have been converted to a number of small restaurants, bars, and boutiques, all which can be reached by climbing a series of steps traveling up the hillside. Near the top you can visit the Fortín del Cerro (‘Fort of the Hill’), cannons from the fort were used to protect the city from pirates or reaching the top the lighthouse offers a phenomenal 360-degree view of the river and Guayaquil.
Lying at the base of Las Peñas in complete contrast is the Malecon 2000. A restoration project of the Simon Bolivar Pier, the Malecon 2000 is modern in design and a popular destination for both locals and international travelers. This 1.5 mile walk (for pedestrians only) along the Guayas River offers a variety of shopping and dinning experiences mixed together with family friendly activities including remote control boats, playgrounds, exercise areas.
The botanical garden is home to over 320 plant species from the coast, 70 bird species and 60 butterfly species. The flowering plants mixed with the bromeliads make this a peaceful rest stop. The Malecon is home to Ecuador’s only IMAX theatre, and a series of Museums, statues and monuments that include the the Moorish Clock Tower, Olmedo monument and the Rotunda depicting the famous meeting between the two great liberators San Martin and Bolivar who met in Guayaquil in 1822 to discuss South America’s freedom from Spain, the Museum of Anthropology and Contemporary Art, Municipal Museum and Museo Nahim Iscias. The Museo Nahim Iscias houses articles artifacts including gold jewelry, jugs, pottery and colonial art dating back to 4200 BC
If you continue to the end of the Malecon 2000 you will reach the Mercado Sur (the large ornate iron building was designed by Gustave Eiffel) and the artisan market with handicrafts from all over the country.
Just across the street near the middle of the Malecon you’ll find the ornate grey Palacio Municipal and just beyond the Parque Bolivar known locally as “iguana park” for the many green iguanas that can be seen in trees, on benches, in the grass and just about everywhere in the park. Flanking Bolivar Park is the restored Cathedral, which reflects both the colonial and ethnic influences of the country.
With all this history and shopping around my favorite activity in Guayaquil departs from Malecon 2000. Named for a character from Guayaquil’s past the Captain Morgan departs from the middle of the Malecon and takes guests on an hour long cruise along the Guayas River in a “pirate boat”. The cruise provides the traditional view, how visitors have first seen Guayaquil for centuries via the Guayas River. The views from the river pass the Malecon, Las Peñas and Santa Ana continuing up the river you may pass fishermen in long thin boats while heads of river lettuce bobbing along in the current. Cruising past the neighboring towns you can catch a glimpse of life outside the big city. If you plan your trip for 6pm you can watch as day gives way to night and the lights of the city guide your way back. The Captain Morgan plays music along the way and offers drinks and snacks– at late night atmosphere changes becoming a more festive party cruise.
Guayaquil’s restoration efforts are impressive and the overall change in the city of the last decade has created a lovely and welcoming city worthy of spending an extra day exploring the mix of traditional and modern that give Guayaquil a flavor of its own.
March 25, 2010 § 3 Comments
The first time I ever had ceviche was the first day I was in Ecuador. It’s been about 20 years now, but I remember a friend of mine taking me to a restaurant up on a hill in Quito. He ordered us each a bowl of shrimp ceviche along with a couple of ice cold beers. We received our order the bowl of some sort of Ecuadorian like colored shrimp dish which at the time I thought was something between a shrimp cocktail and a shrimp soup. The plates were accompanied by pop-corn, toasted corn kernels resembling a soft corn nut, bread, aji (a local hot sauce) and ketchup. From the very first bite I was hooked. I love ceviche!
For those of you who don’t know what ceviche is, think of it as a South American take on shashmi. It’s a raw fish or seafood that is “cooked” or pickled in fresh citrus juice. Ceviche is a typical dish breakfast or lunch dish in both Ecuador and Peru though in recent years eating Ceviche has grown in popularity throughout Latin America and can be found on restaurant menus around the world. The preparation depends not only on what country you are in but in what part of the country.
The origin of ceviche is something of debate – it’s thought to go back some 2000 years to fishermen of the Moche Culture in the northernmost portion of Peru. During times of famine they would prepare the raw fish with lime and chilis or chicha (a local fermented beverage – and another story), this new dish was enough to sustain themselves. The Moches would trade their fish for spices and vegetables of their neighboring cultures and the preparation and consumption of Ceviche moved throughout Ecuador and Peru. The name is thought to be a corruption of the indigenous Quechua word siwichi, or the Spanish escabeche, meaning marinade. By the time the Spanish arrived there were many counts of local people eating this dish – the Spanish themselves took up the preparation and would send the recipe in letters to friends and family around the world.
How you ceviche is prepared depends on not only what country you are in, but what part of that country and what fish they are preparing – ceviche can be made from a variety of fish and shell fish. The fish version is made with raw fish where as the shellfish are cooked first.
In Ecuador ceviche comes in more of a soup-like form than in Peru. It’s served in a bowl with the “Leche de Tigre” the water or sauce in which the ceviche was prepared. Dishes along the coast are typically served with mustard, ketchup, aji, chifles and or patacones. If you’ve had too much to drink the night before in Ecuador, one thing is guaranteed you will probably have ceviche the next morning.
In Peru the ceviche is a fish platter served with other items. I was recently in Mancora, in the heart of which was once the Moche Empire. We had ceviche lunch on the beach which was absolutely fabulous. The ceviche was a seafood platter. The fish was a cut into bite sized pieces marinated in a sauce of lime juice, salt, garlic, chili, cilantro and onions. The fish was placed in the middle of a large platter a small amount of the sauce put on top. Unlike Ecuadorian Ceviche the sauce contained no tomatoes. The ceviche’s was surrounded by pieces cooked potatoes, sweet potatoes, maize, tomatoes and corn on the cob. My mouth is watering just thinking about it.
If you are visiting Ecuador or Peru – I highly suggest trying the local dish that has passed the test of time and enjoying a fresh ceviche.
Ecuadorian Shrimp Ceviche
- 1 pound shrimp
- 1 large tomato cut into cubes
- ½ medium white onion cut into long strips
- 1 Red Peppers or jalapenos (optional)
- ¾ cups fresh lime juice
- ½ cup fresh lemon juice
- 1 tablespoon mustard
- ¼ cup ketchup or tomato sauce
- 1 tablespoon oil
- 1 cup Cilantro
Clean and Shell 1 pound of Shrimp – put shells aside to use in the water
Place the shimp shells into 2 cups of water along with a table spoon of salt and bring to a boil. Continue to boil until the shrimp shells turn pink. Remove from heat. You want to strain the water away from the shells – disguarding the shells and preserving the water to use to cook your ceviche.
Place your cleaned shrimp into your warm, shimp flavored water and bring to a boil cooking the shrimp until they are a bright pink color. Do not overcook your shrimp!
Place the shrimp and the water into a bowl to cool.
In a separate bowl combine your onions, tomatoes, cilantro and optional peppers toss together. Combine the water and shrimp to the mixture. Toss the items together then season with the fresh lime and orange juice and tomato sauce or ketchup, oil and optional mustard. Mix together tossing lightly and serve.
- 1 Kg Whitefish (Sea Bass or other fish)
- 1 clove (s) Minced Garlic
- 1 pepper cored, cut into strips
- 1 cup (s) Lemon Juice
- 1 large white onion, cut lengthwise
Wash the fish and cut into squares. Season with lemon juice, garlic, red pepper, salt and pepper. Allow standing for an hour. Add the onion, pepper, celery and coriander. Allow one hour more. Red pepper to taste. Salt and pepper to taste. Add chopped celery and cilantro to taste. Serve with lettuce, corn and potatoes.
For more recipes from Ecuador see Ecuadorian Recipes page
March 16, 2010 § Leave a comment
I’ve been asked before where is my favorite place to snorkel in the Galapagos, its Los Tuneles. This little known site is not part of any cruise itinerary it is a remote site, which most people in the islands don’t even know exists. To get to Los Tuneles you have to be staying in the sleepy town of Puerto Villamil on the island of Isabela. Then there is just one way to get there and it’s not for the faint of heart.
You begin by boarding a small, fiberglass fishing boat to take you the hour ride down the coast – the site is accessible only by special permit – it’s one of the few interesting tourist sites in Galapagos exclusively open to local fisherman. Traveling down the coast, you’ll know you are getting close when you see La Union Rock. La Union is an easily identifiable point – the basalt monolith rises out of the ocean. Every few minutes a massive wave arrives to envelop the rock with water in an epic battle to reclaim it as part of the sea. Flocks of blue-foot and nazca boobies perch on top, enduring the near non-stop downpours of sea spray.
A few minutes further and you reach an area that looks superlative site for the X-games surfing competition with white cap waves rolling in one after another. The idea of reaching land here seems virtually impossible. Yet, in a feat of navigational excellence the captain maneuvers the boat with a series of zigs and zags skirting the waves to reach a series of coves known as Los Tuneles.
Once inside the islets the waters drastically changes, gone are the unrelenting surf that guarded the entrance, instead the surging waters have given way to crystal clear, tranquil pools. The water is so shallow that your guide jumps to the bow to help direct the captain through the rock-strewn labyrinth. Using hand signs they signal to each other “a little more to the left…a little to the right” as the boat continues in a series of turns from one cove to another making you question if either the captain or the guide really knows where they are going.
Where you are doesn’t really matter, this enchanting place is unlike any where you have ever been. Formed when the hot magma from the volcanoes reached the island’s edge it flowed into the cool pacific waters and froze into a series of rock formations including tilted slabs, bridges and of course the tunnels that give the site its name.
Marine life has apparently known about this place for years. As the boat continues along its crazy route you pass from one cove to the next seeing sea lions, penguins, boobies, rays and white tip reef sharks all enjoying their own private pool.
When the boat stops it is time to go explore. A quick look from the rocks above lets you inspect the area – and realize it is easily to get lost within the giant lava maze. Jumping into the water with your snorkel gear you begin checking out the underwater scenery passing from pool to pool seeing yellow tailed grunts, salemas, chocolate chip starfish, lobsters, and the odd rock formations along the way.
Suddenly you see two eyes spying on you – then they are gone in a flash. What was it…you speed up your swim to give chase and try to find out what it was. Having snorkeled in other spots in Galapagos it’s clear it wasn’t a sea lion– they would have swam up to you to play with you rather than darting away. Whatever it was – it’s gone. No problem there seems to be so much else to see.
Passing to the next pool you catch a glimpse at what you were chasing. Again you see it watching you– it’s a green sea turtle. Sea turtles seem to have their own type of game it’s a tactical one. They follow you then having the advantage of experience; they find secret hiding spots where they lie in wait. Unlike their land based cousins, sea turtles are quick in the water, thus rush past you then hide again as they try to investigate why you have entered their sanctuary. Rather than the sea lions favorite game of tag the curious sea turtle prefers to play a game of Spy.
Sea turtles are an amazing creature unlike the carefree surfer-dude sea turtle of the Finding Nemo these turtles appear to be old and wise. Looking into their eyes they seem to have witness the history of the islands first hand. Sea turtles live to be up to 60 years old making you realize this turtle may have been here before the Galapagos became a national park. You can’t help but wonder all the things he may have seen – the last eruption of Cerro Azul to the south in 2008 and Sierra Negra to the north in 2005 for sure but probably those before it too – there were large eruptions dating back over the last 6 decades this wise turtle may have been here to see them all and witness the creation of this site.
Snorkeling at Los Tuneles is a magical place it’s one of the only places in Galapagos you can swim with both tropical fish and rooks of penguins but there is so much more here. I’ve played with sea lions, swam with sharks and manta and golden rays, schools of fish and of course sea turtles. The unique environment combined with the multitude of marine life makes it my favorite place to snorkel in the Galapagos Islands.